On Frankincense-scented Soaps, Peelings and Cleansers or on Cosmetics and Commotics in Antiquity and Early Byzantium
Maciej Kokoszko
University of Łódź , Polandhttps://orcid.org/0000-0002-9563-2902
Zofia Rzeźnicka
University of Łódź , Polandhttps://orcid.org/0000-0001-8566-4946
Abstract
Cosmetology (τέχνη κοσμητική), i.e. a resource of means aimed at maintaining natural beauty of a human, was not frowned upon by the pagans nor by the Christians. What they disapproved of was commotic (κομμωτικὴ τέχνη), defined (by Galen, Clement of Alexandria, Gregory of Nyssa and Theodoret of Cyrus ) as an art of changing the outward appearance to the detriment of nature and one’s health. The present study has been designed to discuss select information, extant in Book VIII of Iatricorum libri by Aëtius of Amida, on what preparations were at disposal of the people of the Mediterranean who cared for their physical cleanliness (as well as health), regardless of their religious proclivities. It is focused on a number of prescriptions for face and body cleansers, though the analysed inventory has been limited to the ones including frankincense. The research material has turned out to be ample enough to draw conclusions on the ingredients used in such agents, their effectiveness, the form of the preparations, their application mode as well as on the addressees of the recipes. It has been also suggested that the formulas were compiled from the body of medical knowledge akin to what was collected by Titus Statilius Crito in his work On cosmetics.
Keywords:
medicine, cosmetology, cosmetics, frankincense, Aëtius of Amida, history, Byzantium, ancient medicine, medical literatureReferences
Aetii Amideni libri medicinales I–VIII, ed. A. Olivieri, Lipsiae – Berolini 1935-1950.
Athenaei Naucratitae dipnosophistarum libri xv, ed. G. Kaibel, v. 1-3, Lipsiae 1887-1890.
Basilius Caesarensis, De legendis gentilium, in: Saint Basile. Aux jeunes gens sur la manière de tirer profit des lettres Helléniques, ed. F. Boulenger, Paris 1935, p. 41-61.
C. Plini Secundi naturalis historiae libri XXXVII, ed. C. Mayhoff, v. 1-4, Lipsiae 1892-1909.
Clemens Alexandrinus, Paidagogos, in: Clément d’Alexandrie, Le pédagogue, ed. M. Harl – H.-I. Marrou – C. Matray – C. Mondésert, v. 1-3, Paris 1960-1970.
Edictum Diocletiani de pretiis rerum venalium, ed. M. Giacchero, v. 1-2, Genova 1974.
Galenus, De alimentorum facultatibus libri III, in: Claudii Galeni Opera omnia, ed. C.G. Kühn, v. 6, Lipsiae 1823.
Galenus, De compositione medicamentorum per genera, in: Claudii Galeni opera omnia, ed. C.G. Kühn, v. 13, Lipsiae 1827.
Galenus, De compositione medicamentorum secundum locos libri X, in: Claudii Galeni Opera omnia, ed. C.G. Kühn, v. 11-12, Lipsiae 1827.
Galenus, De methodo medendi libri XIV, in: Claudii Galeni opera omnia, ed. C.G. Kühn, v. 10, Lipsiae 1825.
Galenus, De simplicium medicamentorum temperamentis ac facultatibus libri XI, in: Claudii Galeni Opera omnia, ed. C.G. Kühn, v. 12-13, Lipsiae 1826-1827.
Galenus, De usu partium, in: Claudii Galeni Opera omnia, ed. C.G. Kühn, v. 3-4, Lipsiae 1822.
Galien. Tome I: Introduction générale. Sur l’ordre de ses propres livres. Sur ses propres livres. Que l’excellent médecin est aussi philosophe, tr. V. Boudon-Millot, Paris 2007.
Geoponica, ed. H. Beckh, Lipsiae 1895.
Gregorius Nyssenus, Contra Eunomium, in: Gregorii Nysseni opera, ed. W. Jaeger, v. 1/1-2/2, Leiden 1960.
Gregorius Nyssenus, De vita Gregorii Thaumaturgii, PG 46, 893-957.
Herodotus, Historiarum librum IX, ed. H. Dietsch, v. 1-2, Lipsiae 1884-1891.
Oribasii collectionum medicarum reliquiae, ed. I. Raeder, v. 1-4, Lipsiae – Berolini 1928-1933.
Oribasius, Libri ad Eunapium, in: Oribasii Synopsis ad Eustathium filium et Libri ad Eunapium, ed. I. Raeder, v. 6/3, Lipsiae 1964.
Oribasius, Synopsis ad Eustathium filium, in: Oribasii Synopsis ad Eustathium filium et Libri ad Eunapium, ed. I. Raeder, v. 6/3, Lipsiae 1964.
Paulus Aegineta, ed. I.L. Heiberg, v. 1-2, Lipsiae – Berolini 1921-1924.
Pedanii Dioscuridis Anazarbei de materia medica libri V, ed. M. Wellmann, v. 1-3, Berolini 1906-1914.
Theodoretus, Curatio affectionum Graecarum, in: Théodoret de Cyr, Thérapeutique des maladies helléniques, ed. P. Canivet, v. 1-2, Paris 1958.
Theodoretus, Haereticarum fabularum compendium, PG 83, 336-556.
Theodoretus, Interpretatio in Psalmos, PG 80, 857-1998.Theophrastus, De causis plantarum, ed. and tr. B. Einarson – G.K.K. Link, v. 3, Cambridge 1990.
Amigues S., Le styrax et ses usages antiques, “Journal des Savants” 2 (2007) p. 261-318. (Crossref)
Amundsen D.W., Medicine and Faith in Early Christianity, “Bulletin of the History of Medicne” 56 (1982) p. 326-350.
Antike Medizin. Ein Lexikon, ed. K.-H. Leven, München 2005.
Ashbrook Harvey S., Scenting Salvation. Ancient Christianity and the Olfactory Imagination, Berkeley – Los Angeles – London 2006. (Crossref)
Boudon-Milliot V., Fards et teintures capillaires: la médecine galénique entre cosmétique et commôtique, in: La coupe d’Hygie. Médecine et chimie dans l’Antiquité (Actes de la journée d’étude internationale organisée à Paris, au C2RMF, le 24 juin 2011), ed. M. Pardon-Labonnelie, Dijon 2013, p. 17-32.
Boudon-Millot V., Greek and Roman Patients under Galen’s Gaze: A Doctor at the
Crossroads of Two Cultures, in: ‘Greek’ and ‘Roman’ in Latin Medical Texts: Studies in Cultural Change and Exchange in Ancient Medicine, ed. B. Maire, Leiden – Boston 2014, p. 5-24.
Boudon-Millot V., Souffrir pour être belle (ou beau). Thérapeutique et cosmétique dans l’Antiquité, in: Le teint de Phrynè Thérapeutique et cosmétique dans l’Antiquité, ed. V. Boudon-Millot – M. Pardon-Labonnelie, Paris 2018, p. 15-29.
Bouras-Vallianatos P., Galen in Late Antique Medical Handbooks, in: Brill’s Companion to the Reception of Galen, ed. P. Bouras-Vallianatos – B. Zipser, Leiden – Boston 2019, p. 38-61. (Crossref)
Brill’s Companion to the Reception of Galen, ed. P. Bouras-Vallianatos – B. Zipser, Leiden – Boston 2019.
Brun J.-P. – Fernandez X., Parfums antiques: de l‘archéologue au chimiste, Milano 2015.
Buzzi S., L’igiene in eta tardoantica: Oribasio di Pergamo, Alessandria 2018.
Buzzi S. – Calá I., Le ricette cosmetiche nelle enciclopedie mediche tardoantiche, in: Collecting Recipes. Byzantine and Jewish Pharmacology in Dialogue, ed. L. Lehmhaus – M. Martelli, Boston – Berlin 2017, p. 123-146. (Crossref)
Calá I., Some cosmetic recipes in medical texts of late antiquity: Treatments for the face in the Libri medicinales of Aetius Amidenus, “Meridies. Estudios De Historia Y Patrimonio De La Edad Media” 11 (2020) p. 2-14. (Crossref)
Chemical Technology in Antiquity, ed. S.C. Rasmussen, Washington 2015.
Collecting Recipes. Byzantine and Jewish Pharmacology in Dialogue, ed. L. Lehmhaus – M. Martelli, Boston – Berlin 2017.
Dalby A., Dangerous Tastes. The Story of Spices, London 2002.
Dawson W.R., Studies in Medical History: (a) The Origin of the Herbal. (b) Castor-oil in Antiquity, “Aegyptus” 10 (1929) p. 57-72.
Donato G. – Seefried M., The Fragrant Past. Perfumes of Cleopatra and Julius Caesar. Emory University Museum of Art and Archaeology Atlanta, April 5 – June 25, 1989, Roma 1989.
Ferngren G.B., Medicine and Health Care in Early Christianity, Baltimore 2009.Faure P., Parfums et aromates de l’Antiquité, Paris 1987.
Freedman P., Mastic: a Mediterranean Luxury Product, “Mediterranean Historical Review” 26 (2011) p. 99-113. (Crossref)
Gowling F., Aëtius’ Extraction of Galenic Essence: A Comparison Between Book 1 of Aetius’ Libri Medicinales and Galen’s On Simple Medicines, in: Collecting Recipes. Byzantine and Jewish Pharmacology in Dialogue, ed. L. Lehmhaus – M. Martelli, Boston – Berlin 2017, p. 83-101. (Crossref)
Groom N., Frankincense and Myrrh: A Study of the Arabian Incense Trade, London – New York 1981.
Guardasole A., Galien de Pergame et la transmission des traités anciens de cosmétique, in: Le teint de Phrynè Thérapeutique et cosmétique dans l’Antiquité, ed. V. Boudon-Millot – M. Pardon-Labonnelie, Paris 2018, p. 31-50.
Haw S.G., Cinnamon, Cassia, and Ancient Trade, “Journal of Ancient History and Archaeology” 4 (2017) p. 5-18. (Crossref)
Kokoszko M., Nard (νάρδος; Nardostachys jatamansi [D. Don] DC) w wybranych źródłach greckich antyku i Bizancjum, in: Lek roślinny. Rośliny w lecznictwie, w środowisku naturalnym i krajobrazie kulturowym, ed. B. Płonka-Syroka – A. Syroka, Wrocław 2017, p. 31-51.
Kokoszko M. – Rzeźnicka Z., Kadzidło i inne pożytki z drzew rodzaju kadzidła (Boswellia, Roxburgh ex Colebrooke). Świadectwo wybranych źródeł medycznych, in: Lek roślinny. Badania nad leczniczymi i toksycznymi właściwościami roślin – historia i współczesność, ed. B. Płonka-Syroka – A. Syroka, Wrocław 2018, p. 15-30.
Konkol K.L. – Rasmussen S.C., An Ancient Cleanser: Soap Production and Use in Antiquity, in: Chemical Technology in Antiquity, ed. S.C. Rasmussen, Washington 2015, p. 245-266. (Crossref)
Le teint de Phrynè Thérapeutique et cosmétique dans l’Antiquité, ed. V. Boudon-Millot – M. Pardon-Labonnelie, Paris 2018.
Lek roślinny. Rośliny w lecznictwie, w środowisku naturalnym i krajobrazie kulturowym, ed. B. Płonka-Syroka – A. Syroka, Wrocław 2017.
Lek roślinny. Badania nad leczniczymi i toksycznymi właściwościami roślin – historia i współczesność, ed. B. Płonka-Syroka – A. Syroka, Wrocław 2018.
Lev E. – Amar Z., Practical Materia Medica of the Medieval Eastern Mediterranean According to the Cairo Genizah, Leiden – Boston 2008. (Crossref)
Material Culture and Well-Being in Byzantium (400–1453). Proceedings of the International Conference (Cambridge, 8-10 September 2001), ed. M. Grünbart – E. Kisslinger – A. Muthesius – D.Ch. Stathakopoulos, Wien 2007.
Mudry Ph., Effacer tatouages et marques d’infamie. Quelques recettes de la médecine antique, in: Le teint de Phrynè Thérapeutique et cosmétique dans l’Antiquité, ed. V. Boudon-Millot – M. Pardon-Labonnelie, Paris 2018, p. 167-180.
Musselman L.J., A Dictionary of Bible Plants Cambridge – New York 2012. (Crossref)
Nutton V., From Galen to Alexander. Aspects of Medicine and Medical Practice in Late Antiquity, DOP 38 (1984) p. 1-14. (Crossref)
Nutton V., Ancient Medicine, London – New York 2005. (Crossref)
Nutton V., Galen in Byzantium, in: Material Culture and Well-Being in Byzantium (400–1453). Proceedings of the International Conference (Cambridge, 8-10 September 2001), ed. M. Grünbart – E. Kisslinger – A. Muthesius – D.Ch. Stathakopoulos, Wien 2007, p. 171-176.
Scarborough J., Criton, Physician to Trajan: Historian and Pharmacist, in: The Craft of the Ancient Historian: Essays in Honor of Chester G. Starr, ed. J.W. Eadie – J. Ober, Lanham 1985, p. 387-405.
Scarborough J., Theodora, Aetius of Amida, and Procopoius: Some Possible Connections, GRBS 53 (2013) p. 742-762.
Squillace G., Le lacrime di Mirra. Miti e luoghi dei profumi nel mondo antico, Bologna 2015.
Temkin O., Byzantine Medicine: Tradition and Empiricism, DOP 16 (1962) p. 95-115. (Crossref)
The Craft of the Ancient Historian: Essays in Honor of Chester G. Starr, ed. J.W. Eadie – J. Ober, Lanham 1985.
The Encyclopedia of Ancient Natural Scientists. The Greek Tradition and its Many Heirs, ed. P.T. Keyser – G. Irby-Massie, London – New York 2008.
The Prosopography of the Later Roman Empire, v. 2: A.D. 395–527, ed. A.H.M. Jones – J.R. Martindale – J. Morris, Cambridge – London – New York – New Rochelle – Melbourne – Sydney 1980.
Totelin L., The third Way. Galen, Pseudo-Galen, Metrodora, Cleopatra and the Gynaecological Pharmacology of Byzantium, in: Collecting Recipes. Byzantine and Jewish Pharmacology in Dialogue, ed. L. Lehmhaus – M. Martelli, Boston – Berlin 2017, p. 103-122. (Crossref)
University of Łódź
Dr Zofia Rzeźnicka: associate professor; the Waldemar Ceran Research Centre for the History and Culture of the Mediterranean Area and South-East Europe (Ceraneum); University of Łódź.
https://orcid.org/0000-0001-8566-4946License
Papers published in Vox Patrum are covered by the Attribution-NoDerivatives 4.0 International (CC BY-ND 4.0) licence. Authors and users can use published works licensed under the CC-BY-ND since 2018. For earlier publications, copyrights are available under fair use rights in accordance with the Act of February 4, 1994 on copyrights and related rights.
