The term kandaulos/kandylos (κανδαυλοσ/ κανδυλοσ) on the basis of the information included in Photius’ λεχεων συναγωγη and Eustathius of Thessaloniki's "Commentari ad Homeri Iliadem"

Maciej Kokoszko

Uniwersytet Łódzki , Poland

Katarzyna Gibel-Buszewska

Uniwersytet Łódzki , Poland


Abstract

The present article focuses on one of the Greek delicacies mentioned by Photius and Eustathius, i.e. a Lydian import called kandaulos/kandylos. The dish was developed before the mid. VI th c. BC and named after a Lydian king, Kandaules, who ruled in the VII th c. BC. The delicacy was (via the Ionians) borrowed by the Helens and established itself in Greece sometime in the V th c. It became popular in Hellenistic times. The information we possess allow us to reconstruct two varieties of kandaulos/ kandylos. The first was savoury and consisted of cooked meat, stock, Phrygian cheese, breadcrumbs and dill (or fennel). The other included milk, lard, cheese and honey. The dish is reported to have been costly, prestigious and indicating the social status of those who would eat it. Though there is much evidence suggesting its popularity in antiquity, we lack solid evidence proving that kaunaudlos/kandylos was eaten in Byzantine times. On the other hand, Byzantine authors preserved the most detailed literary data on the delicacy. If it had not been for the Byzantine interest, our competence in the field of Greek cuisine would be even faultier.

Keywords:

Photius, Eustathius’ of Thessaloniki, kandaulos

Alcock J. P., Food in the ancient world, Westport – London 2006
Angold M., Church and society in Byzantium under the Comneni (1081-1261), Cambridge 1995
Anthimus, De observatione ciborum. On the observance of foods, ed. M. Grant, Blackawton – Devon 2007
Apicius. A critical edition with an introduction and an English translation of the Latin recipe text Apicius, ed. Ch. Grocock – S. Grainger, Blackawton – Devon 2006
Aristophanes, Pax, w: Aristophane, ed. V. Coulon – M. van Daele, II, Paris 1924
Aristoteles, Historia animalium, ed. P. Louis, I, Paris 1964
Arnaud D., Starożytny Bliski Wschód. Od wprowadzenia pisma do Aleksandra Wielkiego, tłum. M. Ryszkiewicz – K. Wakar, Warszawa 1982
Athenaei Naucratitae Deipnosophistarum, w: Athenaei Naucratitae Deipnosophistarum libri XV, ed. G. Kaibel, vol. III, Lipsiae – Berolini 1890
Baldwin B., Athenaeus and his work, „Acta Classica” 19 (1976) 21-42
Bilabel F., Kochbücher, RE XXI 935-937
Briant P., From Cyrus to Alexander. A history of the Persian empire, transl. P.T. Daniels, Winona Lake 2002
Cargill J., The Nabonidus Chronicle and the fall of Lydia, „American Journal of Ancient History” 2 (1977) 97-116
Cercidas, Fragmentum, w: Collectanea Alexandrina, ed. J.U. Powell, Oxford 1925
Cichocka H., Eustacjusz z Tesaloniki, w: Encyklopedia kultury bizantyńskiej, ed. O. Jurewicz, Warszawa 2002
Claudii Galeni opera omnia, ed. D.C.G. Kühn, VI, Lipsiae 1823
Cubberley A., Bread-baking in Ancient Italy. Clibanus and sub testu in the Roman world: Further thoughts, w: Food in antiquity, ed. J. Wilkins – D. Harvey – M. Dobson, Exeter 1995
Cunningham M.B., Divine banquet: the Theotokos as a source of spiritual nourishment, w: Eat, drink and be merry (Luke 12:19). Food and wine in Byzantium. In honour of Professor A.A.M. Bryer, ed. L. Brubaker – K. Linardou, Hampshire 2007
Curtis R.I., Ancient food technology, Leiden – Boston – Köln 2001
Dalby A., Dangerous tastes. The story of spices, London 2002
Dalby A., Flavours of Byzantium, Blackawton – Devon 2003
Dalby A., Food in the Ancient World from A to Z, London – New York 2003
Dalby A., Siren Feasts. A History of Food and Gastronomy in Greece, London 1996
Davidson A., The Oxford companion to food, Oxford 1996
Demosthenousa A., The scholar and the partridge: attitudes relating to nutritional goods in the twelfth century from the letters of the scholar John Tzetzes, w: Feast, fast or famine. Food and drink in Byzantium, ed. W. Mayer – S. Trzcionka, Brisbane 2005
Doran J., Table traits, with something on them, Edinburgh – Dublin 1859
Eat, drink and be merry (Luke 12:19). Food and wine in Byzantium. In honour of Professor A.A.M. Bryer, ed. L. Brubaker – K. Linardou, Hampshire 2007
Essex Cheke V., The story of cheese-making in Britain, London 1959
Eustathii archiepiscopi Thessalonicensis Commentarii ad Homeri Iliadem pertinentes, ed. M. van der Valk, IV, Leiden 1987
Eustathius Thessalonicensis, Commentarii ad Homeri Iliadem
Feast, fast or famine. Food and drink in Byzantium, ed. W. Mayer – S. Trzcionka, Brisbane 2005
Food and cooking in Byzantium. Proceedings of the symposium „On food in Byzantium” (Thessaloniki Museum of Byzantine Culture, 4 November 2001), ed. D. Papanikola-Bakirtzi, Athens 2005
Fox P.F. – McSweeney P.L.H., Cheese: An overview, w: Cheese. Chemistry, physics and microbiology, t. 1: General aspects, ed. P.F. Fox – P.L H. McSweeney – T.M. Cogan – T.P. Guinee, Amsterdam – Boston 2004
Frayn J., Home baking in Roman Italy, „Antiquity” 52 (1978)
Gibel K., Symbolika jedzenia w wybranych pismach Jana Chryzostoma na przykładzie derywatów od karyke (karyke), w: Byzantina Europea. Księga Jubileuszowa ofiarowana profesorowi Waldemarowi Ceranowi, ed. M. Kokoszko – M.J. Leszka, Byzantina Lodziensia XI, Łódź 2007, 121-131
Grainger S., Cooking „Apicius”. Roman recipes for modern kitchens, Blackawton – Devon 2006
Grant M., Roman cookery. Ancient recipes for modern kitchens, London 2002
Greenewalt C.H., Ritual dinners in early historic Sardis, Berkeley 1976
Grocock Ch. – Grainger S., A glossary to Apicius, w: Apicius. A critical edition with an introduction and an English translation of the Latin recipe text Apicius, ed. Ch. Grocock – S. Grainger, Blackawton – Devon 2006
Grünbart M., Store in a cool and dry place: perishable goods and their preservation in Byzantium, w: Eat, drink and be merry (Luke 12:19). Food and wine in Byzantium. In honour of Professor A.A.M. Bryer, ed. L. Brubaker – K. Linardou, Hampshire 2007
Harvey D., Lydian specialities, Croesus’ golden baking-woman, and dogs’ dinners, w: Food in antiquity, ed. J. Wilkins – D. Harvey – M. Dobson, Exeter 1995
Herodotus, Historiae, ed. Ph.E. Legrand, Paris 1932
Hesychii Alexandrini Lexicon, kandaulos, ed. M. Schmidt, vol. I-V, Jenae 1859-1868
Hesychius, Lexicon, kandaulos, ed. K. Latte, Copenhagen 1953
Hickman T., The history of Stilton cheese, Stroud 1996
Hipponax, Fragmentum, w: Iambi et elegi Graeci, ed. M.L. West, vol. 1, Oxford 1971
Iulii Pollucis Onomasticon, ed. I. Bekker, Berolini 1846
Jurewicz O., Focjusz, w: Encyklopedia kultury bizantyńskiej, ed. O. Jurewicz, Warszawa 2002
Jurewicz O., Historia literatury bizantyńskiej. Zarys, Wrocław – Warszawa – Kraków 1984
Karpozelos, A., Realia in Byzantine Epistolography X-XII c., ByzZ 77 (1984)
Karpozelos, A., Realia in Byzantine Epistolography XIII–XV c., ByzZ 88 (1995)
Kelhoffer J.A., The diet of John the Baptist. „Locust and wild honey” in synoptic and patristic interpretation, Tûbingen 2005
Kislingera E., Les chrétiens d’Orient: règles et réalités alimentaires dans le monde byzantin, w: Historie de l’alimentation, ed. J.L. Flandrin – M. Montanari, Paris 1996
Koder J., Stew and salted meat – opulent normality in the diet of every day?, w: Eat, drink and be merry (Luke 12:19). Food and wine in Byzantium. In honour of Professor A.A.M. Bryer, ed. L. Brubaker – K. Linardou, Hampshire 2007
Kodera J., Gemüse in Byzanz. Die Versorgung Konstantinopels mit Frishgemüse im Lichte der Geoponika, Wien 1993
Kokoszko M., Dieta średniowiecznego Bizancjum? Krótka historia kandaulos (kandaulos) / kandylos (kandylos) na podstawie lekseon synagoge Focjusza, w: Człowiek w średniowieczu. Między biologią a historią, ed. A. Szymczakowa, Łódź 2009, 53-63
Kokoszko M., Historia kuchni antycznej i bizantyńskiej. Sos karyke (karyke). Komentarz do Chronografii Michała Psellosa, „Przegląd Nauk Historycznych” 5 (2006) nr 2(10)
Kokoszko M., Ryby i ich znaczenie w życiu codziennym ludzi późnego antyku i wczesnego Bizancjum (III-VII w.), Byzantina Lodziensia IX, Łódź 2005
Kokoszko M., Smaki Konstantynopola, w: Konstantynopol. Miasto i ludzie w okresie wczesnobizantyńskim, red. M.J. Leszka – T. Wolińska, Warszawa 2011
Kokoszko M. –Erlich Ł., Rola mięsa w diecie późnego antyku i wczesnego Bizancjum na podstawie wybranych źródeł literackich, cz. 1: Zwierzęta hodowlane w sztuce kulinarnej oraz teorii dietetycznej, „Piotrkowskie Zeszyty Historyczne” 12 (2011) 18-33
Kokoszko M. – Gibel, Focjusz a kuchnia grecka, czyli kilka słów o abyrtake (abyrtake), VoxP 28 (2008) t. 52, 495-504
Kokoulesa F., Byzantinon bios kai politismos, vol. V: Hai trofai kai ta pota. Ta geumata. Ta deipna kai ta symposia, Athens 1952
Kumaniecki K., Historia kultury starożytnej Grecji i Rzymu, Warszawa 1977
Liversidge J., Roman kitchens and cooking utensils, w: The Roman cookery book. A critical translation of „The art of cooking” by Apicius for use in the study and the kitchen, ed. B. Flower – E. Rosenbaum, London –Toronto 1958
Lukinovich A., The play of reflections between literary form and the sympotic theme in the „Deipnosophistae” of Athenaeus, w: Sympotica. A symposium on the symposium, ed. O. Murray, Oxford 1994, 263-271
Malmberg S., Dazzling dining: banquets as an expression of imperial legitimacy, w: Eat, drink and be merry (Luke 12:19). Food and wine in Byzantium. In honour of Professor A.A.M. Bryer, ed. L. Brubaker – K. Linardou, Hampshire 2007
Menander, Fragmentum, w: Menandri reliquiae selectae. Fragmenta longiora apud alios auctores servata, ed. F.H. Sandbach, Oxford 1972
Nicostratus, Fragmentum
Oeuvres completes d’Hippoctae, ed. E. Littre, V, Paris 1846
Philemon, Fragmentum, w: Comicorum Atticorum fragmenta, ed. T. Kock, II, Leipzig 1884
Photii patriarchae Lexicon, kandaulos, ed. C. Theodoridis, vol. 1, Berlin – New York 1982
Plutachi quaestiones convivales, w: Plutarchi moralia, ed. C. Hubert, IV, Lipsiae 1938
Plutarchus, Quaestiones convivales
Pray Bober P., Art, culture and cuisine. Ancient and medieval gastronomy, Chicago – London 1999
Przeworski S., Dzieje i kultura Azji Mniejszej do podboju perskiego, w: Wielka historia powszechna, red. J. Dąbrowski i inni, t. 1, Pradzieje ludzkości i historia państw wschodu, Warszawa 1935
Psellos M., Chronographie ou histroire d’un siècle de Byzance (976-1077) II 7, 4, ed. É. Renauld, vol. 1, Paris 1926
Scholia in Aristophanis pacem vetera et recentiora Triclinii, w: Scholia in Aristophanem 2.2. Scholia in Vespas, Pacem, Aves et Lysistratam, ed. D. Holwerda, Gronignen 1982
Scott R. – Robinson R.K. – Wilbey R.A., Cheesemaking practice, New York 1998
Simoons F.J., Eat not this flesh. Food avoidances from prehistory to the present, Madison – London 1994
Skylopniktes, Ioannis Tzetzae historiarum variarum chiliades VI 482, ed. T. Kiessling, Hildesheim 1963
Stathakopoulos D., Between the field and the palate: how agricultural products were processed into food, w: Eat, drink and be merry (Luke 12:19). Food and wine in Byzantium. In honour of Professor A.A.M. Bryer, ed. L. Brubaker – K. Linardou, Hampshire 2007
Suidae Lexicon, kandaulos, ed. A. Adler, I-IV, Lipsiae 1928-1935
Thurmand D.L., A handbook of food processing in classical Rome. For her bounty no winter, Leiden – Boston 2006
Toussaint-Samat M., Histoire de la nourriture naturelle et morale, Paris 1997
Ure P.N., The origins of tyranny, Cambridge 1922
Wade-Gery H.T., Essays in Greek history, Oxford 1958
Webera T., Essen und Trinken in Konstantinopel des 10. Jahrhunderts, nach den Berichten Liutprands von Cremona, w: J. Koder – T. Weber, Liutprand von Cremona in Konstaninope. Untersuchungen zum griechischen Sprachschatz und zu realienkundlichen Aussagen in seinen Werken, Byzantina Vindoboniensia XIII, Wien 1980, 71-99
White K.D., Cereals, bread and milling in the Roman World, w: Food in antiquity, ed. J. Wilkins – D. Harvey – M. Dobson, Exeter 1995
Wilkins J., The boastful chef. The discourse of food in ancient Greek comedy, Oxford 2000
Wilkins J. – Hill S., Food in the ancient world, Oxford 2006
Wilkins J. – Hill S., The sources and sauces of Athnenaeus, w: Food in antiquity, ed. J. Wilkins – D. Harvey – M. Dobson, Exeter 1995
Wilson N.G., The scholars of Byzantium, London – Cambridge – Massachusetts 1996

Published
2010-07-15


Kokoszko, M., & Gibel-Buszewska, K. (2010). Termin kandaulos/kandylos (κανδαυλοσ/ κανδυλοσ) na podstawie λεχεων συναγωγη Focjusza oraz "Commentari ad Homeri Iliadem" Eustacjusza z Tessaloniki. Vox Patrum, 55, 361–373. https://doi.org/10.31743/vp.4342

Maciej Kokoszko 
Uniwersytet Łódzki
Katarzyna Gibel-Buszewska 
Uniwersytet Łódzki



License

Papers published in Vox Patrum are covered by the Attribution-NoDerivatives 4.0 International (CC BY-ND 4.0) licence. Authors and users can use published works licensed under the CC-BY-ND since 2018. For earlier publications, copyrights are available under fair use rights in accordance with the Act of February 4, 1994 on copyrights and related rights.